Focaccia is the first bread I ever made from scratch. Doused in olive oil with a thin crust of sea salt flakes – its and impressive and easy bread to make. Then we get into the realm of flavourings. I used to work on a bread stall at a farmers’ market and among the fabulous bread on offer was tomato focaccia, where cherry tomatoes are stuffed into the characteristic focaccia dimples. Rosemary or thyme are also fragrant additions and withstand the cooking process. This version is red onion and goats cheese.

Focaccia is essentially a normal white bread loaf that is stretched into an oblong shape once it has proved once. You then push your fingers into the dough to create the dimples, leave to rise some more, throw on some toppings and bake it in the oven. Once cooked, season with a little sea salt and drizzle over lots of olive oil

I didn’t have the foresight to make this a sourdough version (although, I have a feeling it would make a particularly chewy, tangy crust), so used Jamie Oliver’s recipe which is especially good, I think, for the bread-baking novice.

So, what to do with the focaccia once you made it? We had it as part of a general Ottolenghi inspired meal, ready to soak up sauces and juices. Day-old focaccia would make a particularly good toasted sandwich, slice it in half lengthways and stuff with cheese and anything else you like, then toast under the grill.