Orange and grapefruit marmalade

December 14th, 2010

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For someone who doesn’t like marmalade, I’ve certainly made a lot in my time. In previous jobs, for The Breakfast Club (to go with the divine coconut bread) and our Christmas hampers.

I recently made 25 jars for Innocent to go in press packs for their orange juice. Seville oranges are really the best for making marmalade, but as they don’t come into season until January, I went with an orange and grapefruit mixture for the right balance of sweet and sharp. Marmalade makes a really nice Christmas present, so I thought I’d share the recipe here. If like me, you keep all your empty jars, then this is also a really cheap present.

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If you’re making this for Christmas presents, here’s a Christmas version of the label above to make them look pretty.

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Download marmalade label

If you’ve never made marmalade before, don’t be scared. The recipe isn’t foolproof, but it’s pretty close and I’ve tried to include all my tips to make sure it sets. The trick is to have a big enough pan, the mixture needs to get to a really rolling boil and will almost triple in volume. This also means that the marmalade will reach the setting point more quickly and so stay a vibrant colour.

makes about 6 x 250g jars

Ingredients
1 grapefruit
1 orange
1 lemon
(they should weigh about 700g in total)
1.5 litres water
1.4 kg granulated sugar

  • Wash the fruit and place into a fairly snug saucepan and pour over the water. (The water should completely cover the fruit.)
  • Bring to the boil and boil for two hours, by which time the fruit should be very soft.
  • Remove the fruit from the pan and leave to cool. Reserve the cooking water. (You can do this the day before and leave the oranges, covered on the stove.)
  • Meanwhile sterilise the jars, wash in soapy water, rinse well and then place in a 100C oven, upside down, to dry.
  • Cut the fruit in half and scoop out all of the flesh and pips. Thinly slice the fruit skin.
  • To make the marmalade, you’ll need your widest, deepest pan.
  • Weight the shredded fruit skin and reserved water – it should weigh 1-1.2 kg. If not, boil the mixture for another 5 minutes or until it weighs 1-1.2kg. Stir in the sugar.
  • Place a saucer into the freezer.
  • Bring the sugar, water and fruit peel to a vigorous rolling boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil uncovered for 15mins.
  • Now, here is the tricky bit, you need to test the marmalade to make sure it will set once cooled.
  • Spoon half a teaspoon of marmalade onto the saucer. Allow it to cool for a minute back in the freezer, then push it with your little finger – if a crinkly skin forms, it has reached setting point. If not, continue cooking and do more testing at 5-minute intervals. (Depending on the size of your pan, it can take up to 45 minutes for the marmalade to set.)
  • Once ready, allow to cool for about five minutes so that the skin is dispersed evenly.
  • Remove the jars from the oven and without touching the lip, carefully turn them over.
  • Ladle the marmalade into a jug and pour the marmalade into the jars (use a spoon to push the skin into the jars). Clean up any spillages with a wet cloth.
  • Place the lids into a large bowl and cover with boiling water and leave for five minutes. Remove the lids, dry with a clean tea towel and place onto the jars.
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Bulghar wheat, feta and pea lunchbox salad

December 9th, 2010

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I don’t know about you, but I’ve completely embraced winter eating – pies, stews and mash with everything. It’s easy when, with the weather as it has been, you’re constantly covered in a layer of thermal clothing and any journey outside makes you feel like you definitely need to eat a steaming bowl of carbs to warm up.

Now I don’t normally have a problem with this and I’m definitely not one for diets. But I do feel like I need to embrace fruit and vegetables a bit more and eschew coffee and pastries for breakfast every day.

This salad is my first step, packed full of good things and perfect for packed lunches: bulghar wheat with peas, cherry tomatoes, seeds, rocket and feta in a lemony dressing. Think of this as very much open to interpretation – we skipped the feta and had chunks of chicken for a light dinner and I’m sure salmon would work perfectly too. I would also substitute the peas for chickpeas for something equally tasty.

It’s fairly robust and a big batch will keep in the fridge for a good few days. If you are taking it to work, I would layer it up, spoon the salad in first and top with the avocado and rocket (this stops the rocket getting soggy).
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Christmas present ideas

December 5th, 2010

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Are you thinking about homemade Christmas presents? It seems the whole world is right now…

The Guardian

BBC Food

BBC Good Food

Our friends and relatives have long been subject to homemade presents. Last year it was brownies, fudge and a jar of chutney. The year before that homemade bread, Neal’s yard cheese and onion marmalade. This year they’re getting cherry liqueur (based on Hugh’s recipe) and macaroons (I seem to constantly be making macaroons…)

If you’re thinking of going down that route – the following recipes are all safe bets and they all last a few days too in case you don’t get round to eating them on Christmas day…

Limoncello macaroons

Chocolate and pistachio fudge

Chocolate and hazelnut cookies

and if that all sounds like too much hard work and you live near Brixton – I’m making delicious homemade hampers this year full of tasty treats. Email me to order one: rachel[at]whatrachelate.com

hampers

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Really good pork belly

November 30th, 2010

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I love pork belly, it’s super cheap and totally delicious if you do it right – crisp (not tooth shattering) crackling and meltingly tender meat underneath. I served this at The Breakfast Club on Friday and afterwards lots of people told me that they wouldn’t normally pick this on a menu, (don’t worry – the plates were clean so I can only assume they liked it). Why? I think it’s something to do with the visible fattiness – now a bit of fat never scared me, and the thing is, if you cook it long and slow enough, the fat melts into the meat and you’re left with delicious meat, rather than a thick layer of the stuff.

How to cook perfect pork belly? Well, as I said before, the secret is long, slow cooking BUT you also want that crisp crackling. So you need to put it in a really hot oven for about 30 minutes to get things going then turn it down to about 160C for another 2 or so hours.  If your crackling is looking a little flaccid once cooked, you can always blast it under the grill for a few minutes to crisp up. This is also useful if you’re doing this in advance, as a short spell under the grill will warm the meat up too.

I took inspiration from eat like a girl and rubbed crushed fennel seeds and sea salt into the skin. Then I followed Jamie Oliver’s recipe – you roast the pork on a bed of onions and carrots – once the pork is cooked, use the vegetables to make a deeply savoury sauce.

What to serve with pork belly? We’re in proper comfort food territory here, so mash is almost obligatory. But you also need something sweet to cut through the aforementioned fat. I like braised red cabbage, but Ottolenghi serves his with a plum and ginger relish. Anything with apple is good too.

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ps:  We had this delightfully seasonal pear crumble cake for dessert with homemade ginger ice cream.

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Another beetroot and goats cheese tart

November 15th, 2010

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We’re well and truly into winter now and so, the days of endless root vegetables ensue. Thankfully, this tart holds onto a little of summer while still being robust enough for winter nights. I’ve made a version of this before, but this time it’s a little more decadent, full to the brim with sweet beetroot and tangy goats’ cheese. All you need is a salad to go alongside, and I would go for a grated carrot version.

We recently harvested some beetroots that we’d planted as a little experiment. Keen to do them justice, I fried the stalks and leaves in plenty of butter with a hefty dose of garlic (they look and taste much like chard). Meanwhile, I boiled the beets until tender, peeled and sliced them. I tipped it all into the blind-baked polenta pastry case, crumbled over some goats’ cheese and poured over an eggy custard.
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Easy sausage and bean stew

November 6th, 2010

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We usually have a bonfire at our flat on Bonfire Night and, along with the mulled wine, I usually make this stew. It’s great because it’s a cheap and easy way to fill up lots of people. It’s also great if you’ve got veggies coming over as you cook the beany stew first (preferably in advance, to allow the flavours to develop) then grill the sausages seperately, slice them and stir them into the stew at the last minute. I usually cook some veggie sausages too, portion off a little stew first (depending on how many veggies there are) and stir in the veggie sausages. I also prefer cooking the sausages this way, as they tend to get a bit flabby when cooked in the stew, this way they can get golden-brown and crisp under the grill.

All that’s left to do is stir in a load of chopped parsley and spoon some yoghurt on top of each bowl. Buy a couple of baguettes for extra carbs.  If you’re clever, you may even cook enough to have leftovers, in which case I think they would make a wonderfully trashy pie topped with mash and grated cheese.
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Carrot Cake

November 6th, 2010

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This is the easiest, tastiest carrot cake recipe ever. Based on an American recipe, it uses sunflower oil instead of butter which gives it that dense and moist carrot cake character. What follows is a basic recipe, but the beauty is, you can add whatever you fancy. Try adding some nuts: pecans, walnuts and pistachio are all good. A little orange or lime zest will add some zing and can also be used in the icing.

You can make a simple cream cheese icing by beating a tub of cream cheese with about 250g icing sugar. Try adding a little lime juice and zest or using mascarpone for a more luxurious filling. I’ve made this so many times, as a sandwich cake, as muffins and it’s great baked in a rectangular baking tray: slather the top with icing and cut into squares.
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Spiced pumpkin ice cream

November 2nd, 2010

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I picked this out as a possible recipe for The Breakfast Club a while ago. As I would advise anyone cooking for an important dinner – make sure you’ve cooked the recipes before! I tried mine out on some friends after a leisurely Saturday afternoon lunch, which by the way, is such a good idea. We eschewed the somehwhat exorbitant prices you have to pay for a decent Sunday lunch in the capital and did it at my friend’s house. I made dessert and brought coffee, someone else made the mac and cheese (essential for a roast dinner) and someone else brought plenty of wine. We finished just in time to watch Strictly!

Anyway, the ice cream went down so well, that I knew I was onto a winner and it was hands down the most popular dish on Saturday when I served it at The Breakfast Club. Think pumpkin pie in ice cream form, with a luxuriously creamy texture. It’s so good, you need to make it. Soon.
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Limoncello macaroons

October 21st, 2010

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While these macaroons aren’t as pretty as the French versions they’re certainly as tasty: lemony, almondy and chewy. I’m planning on serving them with coffee at the next breakfast club, but they’d also make a perfect mid-afternoon nibble. The only problem being that you can’t (or rather I couldn’t) stop at just one. If you can restrain yourself, they do keep extremely well (up to a week so far in a tupperware).

I came across the recipe on 101 Cookbooks, but I’ve adapted it below as her version calls for almond paste which I couldn’t buy that easily, so I’ve used ground almonds and some extra egg instead. Either way, they’re really easy to make, simply mix everything together into a dough, pinch off small pieces and roll into balls. My only word of warning is that the dough is very sticky, so make sure you dust the work surface with plenty of icing sugar and keep more on hand.
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Leek and goats’ cheese on toast

October 3rd, 2010

leek and goats cheese on toast

Every time I go to the market these days, I’m torn. On the one hand, you can still get late summer tomatoes, courgettes and peppers, but on the other hand, I just want to eat sausage and mash! I blame the cold weather.

I gave in this week and bought a big bag of potatoes (for fishcakes), a cauliflower (for fritters) and leeks. I made this when I got in, inspired by a recipe in the Abel & Cole Cookbook, it’s kind of like extra special cheese on toast, great for a snack or light lunch.

Sharp and salty goat’s cheese goes so well with the sweet leeks; it’s a combination worth considering for risotto, pasta or a tart. The key is to sweat the leeks slooowly, preferably in butter, for a good 15 minutes. You want them to be completely soft and sweet, without even a hint of brown, otherwise they can become bitter.

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